The Highwayman (pub newcomer of the year) (3)
The second Lancastrian pub from Craig Bancroft and Nigel Haworth, the duo behind the Three Fishes in Mitton, The Highwayman bangs the same drum as its sibling for top-quality produce from the north-west. If the pub’s refurbishment feels just a little bit too polished to make it genuinely atmospheric local, the quality of food and terrific value for money more than merit a journey from those who live further a field.
Prominence given to provenance can make the menu read a little like a family tree: Peter Gott’s potted wild boar might be followed by Farmer Sharp’s Herdwick mutton pudding.
But there’s more to the Highwayman than name-dropping and the kitchen knows how to get the best out of its scrupulously sourced ingredients: slow-cooked leg of Goosnargh corn-fed duckling falls off the bone into a hearty casserole of Howbarrow organic vegetables, with a dinky bowl of gratin potatoes on the side adding a creamy dollop of comfort.
Elsewhere are platters of Cumbrian hams and smoked fish, grilled steaks and sausages, salads and sandwiches, cheese and home-made ice cream and a ‘young person’s’ menu’. House red and white by the glass are £3.15.